Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776
Mantua Model Group August 2001 Page 5
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
General notes:
All dimensions given are in millimetres. The symbol means diameter
Component numbers (n.11, etc) refer to the numbered plywood parts on Plans 1 and 2.
Figure numbers given below (Figure 1, etc) refer to the numbered drawings on Plans 3 and 4 and in
this booklet. Pictures refer to the photographs reproduced in this booklet.
Part numbers (Part 23 etc.) refer to the detailed or exploded drawings on Plan 5.
The sequence given here is the recommended order for completing the model.
STEP 1: Preparing the Plywood Parts
On the thirteen plywood panels supplied, and using the full-sized drawings on Plans Number 1 and 2
as guides, mark the identity numbers on the parts with a soft pencil - so that the marks may be erased
later. Note that the 1.2 mm thick deck panel is shown as three panels on the plan. Provide yourself with
some storage boxes. Remove all of the plywood parts from the plywood sheets with a sharp craft knife,
smoothing all edges with fine sandpaper and taking care not to destroy the laser-cut outline of each
piece. Put the pieces in the storage boxes for safekeeping.
STEP 2: Making a Working Cradle
It is useful to hold the keel in a vice or working cradle while the ship is being assembled. Keel-clamp
Mantua Model Art.8155 (not supplied) is ideal for this purpose. If you do not have a suitable keel
clamp, make up a working cradle as shown on Figure 2 / Plan 3 by nailing two 6x6x550 wooden
runners (supplied) set 5 mm apart onto a wooden base (not supplied), so that the keel sits securely
between the runners.
STEP 3: Assembling the Keel-and-frame Structure
Use the full-sized diagram and the smaller, exploded view of the hull structure on Plan 3 as guides.
Place the keel n.19 in the keel clamp and trial-fit frames n.1-n.18 into the keel without glue, filing the
slots in the parts as necessary so that they slide together without being forced. Trial fit the false deck
plate n.20 onto the frames without glue. Warning: the parts are fragile and will fracture if forced.
When the parts have been prepared, glue the frames into the keel and before the glue sets, glue the
false deck plate n.20 securely in place ensuring that the frames are aligned with each other and that
they are square to the keel. Clamp the assembly and put aside until the glue has set.
STEP 4: Inserting the Deck Plates
Trial-fit the deck plates n.27, n.28, n.29 and n.30 into the frames each side of the ship, carefully
checking that the parts are the right way round and that the ends are aligned correctly with the frames.
Use the smaller, exploded view of the hull structure on Plan 3 as a guide. Mark off the profile of the
frames on these parts and shape the outside edges with a hobby plane as shown in Figure 3. Glue the
finished parts in place and clamp them until set. When dry, smooth with sandpaper.
STEP 5: Assembling the Stern Transom
Figure 4: Fit and glue the transom support brackets n.21 on to frame n.11 ensuring that they are square
and vertical, and fit the upper transom support n.22 on top of n.21. Clamp until set. Glue the lower
transom support n.23 into the slots of n.21 and clamp until dry. File and sand the back edges of parts
n.21, n.22 and n.23 so that the stern transom n.31 fits snugly on the stern. Glue and pin the transom in
place until set.
Figure 5: File slots in the top surface of transom beams n.24 and fit them under the transom and
around brackets n.21 as shown in Figure 5. Fit the side cheeks n.25 to the stern keel. Fit the side
cheeks n.26 to the bow keel. Pin or clamp in place until set. The front edges of frames n.16, n.17 and
n.18, the rear underside edges of frames n.1, n.2 and n.3 the stern side cheeks n.25 and the bow
cheeks n.26 all need to be filed. This is so that the hull planks make a smooth curve around the frames
to the bow and to the stern respectively and so that the area for adhesion is increased on these frames.
Looking from above the structure, and using a strip of wood as a hull plank, check how much material
needs to be removed from the edges of these frames. File or sand the edges of the frames as
necessary to achieve a smooth profile.
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