Manual DeWalt DWS715 Mitre Saw

Manual

8

ENGLISH

move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel

clamp knobfirmly.

Bevel angles can be set up to 48° left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero and 50°

right or left. At some extreme angles, the left side fence might have to be removed. To remove

the left fence, unscrew the fence locking knob

14

several turns and slide the fenceout.

Quality of cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut,

blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of thecut.

When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth

carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desiredresults.

Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade

come to a full stop before raisingarm.

If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on

the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape

whenfinished.

For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and

select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades underAccessories.

Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. A)



WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and

disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change

accessories or make anyadjustments.



WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become

unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the

saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become

unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable

surface. Personal injury mayoccur.



WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the

clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part of

the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of thesaw.



CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece

damage and personalinjury.

If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape,

etc.) or your hand would be less than 4" (100mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must

beused.

For best results use the clamp

21

provided with your saw. Additional DW7090 clamps can be

purchased at your local retailer or DeWALT servicecenter.

Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes

and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry

run before making the cut. The sliding fence

10

will slide from side to side to aid in clamping

To Install Clamp (Fig. A)

1. Insert the clamp

21

into one of the four locations

15

on thebase.

2. Lifting up on the arm of the clamp can rapidly adjust the height, then use the fine adjust

knob to firmly clamp theworkpiece.

NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY

RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE

CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW ORGUARDS.



WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become

unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the

saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become

unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a

stablesurface.



WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the

clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part of

the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of thesaw.

Support for Long Pieces



WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and

disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change

accessories or make anyadjustments.

ALWAYS SUPPORT LONGPIECES.

Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a

workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull

theworkpiece.

For best results, use the DWX723, DWX724, DWX725B or DWX726 miter saw stand to extend the

table width of your saw. These are available from your dealer at extracost.

Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to

keep the ends fromdropping.

Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-Sided

Projects (Fig. P)

To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple

projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for yoursaw.

Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in FigureP. Sketch A in

FigureP shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards

at 45° each to produce a 90° miter corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero

position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The wood was positioned with the broad

flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by

mitering right and left with the broad surface against thefence.

Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. P)

Sketch B in FigureP shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45° to miter the two boards

to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter

arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow

edge against thefence.

The two sketches in FigureP are for four sided objectsonly.

As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the

proper angles for a variety of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a

shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180° divided by the number of

sides equals the miter or bevelangle.

EXAMPLES

No. Sides Angle Miter or Bevel

4 45°

5 36°

6 30°

7 25.7°

8 22.5°

9 20°

10 18°

Fig. P

A B

Cutting Compound Miters (Fig. Q, R)

A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is

the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in FigureQ.

NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the miter

lock knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in

bevel ormiter.

The chart (Table 1) will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for common

compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (FigureR, Angle A+Exteriors

Angles = 90°) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that

point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the

correct miterangle.

Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces

together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable withit.

EXAMPLE: To make a 4 sided box with 65° exterior angles(FigureR), 25°(Angle A)

= 90° – 65°(Exteriors

Angles), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to

either side to get miter angle setting on saw (23°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to

the top or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts on a few scrap

pieces of wood to verify settings onsaw.

Fig. Q Fig. R

When Mitering to the Right

To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate

vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the miter angle

when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest

mark on the miter scale to theleft.

Exteriors

Angles

Angle A

Rating

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